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  1. Home
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  3. Wrapped in Beauty: The Koelz Collection of Kashmiri Shawls

Wrapped in Beauty: The Koelz Collection of Kashmiri Shawls

Grace Beardsley in collaboration with Carla M. Sinopoli 2005
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This richly illustrated volume examines the remarkable Kashmiri shawls of the Walter Koelz Collection of the University of Michigan Museum of Anthropological Archaeology. Part I presents the history, production, forms, and ornamentation of Kashmiri shawls, focusing on the impact of social contexts and the advent of the Jacquard loom on shawl development. Part II is a detailed descriptive catalogue of the shawls in the Koelz Collection. An accompanying CD-ROM includes color illustrations of the shawls in the collection as well as a transcribed manuscript by Koelz.
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Series
  • Anthropological Papers Series
ISBN(s)
  • 978-1-949098-79-2 (ebook)
  • 978-0-915703-60-9 (paper with cd)
Subject
  • Anthropology
Citable Link
  • Table of Contents

  • Stats

  • Contents
  • List of Tables and Illustrations in Part I
  • Preface
  • Acknowledgments
  • Part I: Kashmir Shawls in Context
    • Chapter 1. Introduction
      • About the Koelz Collection
      • The Organization of this Work
    • Chapter 2. Walter N. Koelz and His Collections, by Carla M. Sinopoli
      • A Biographical Sketch
      • The UMMA Koelz Collection
    • Chapter 3. "Turbans" (Patkas)
    • Chapter 4. Kashmir and Persian Shawls in Their Historical Context
      • The Historical Background of the Kashmir Shawl
        • Early Development: Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries
        • Nineteenth-Century Production
      • The Koelz Collection in its Broader Contexts
        • Parts of a Shawl
        • Size and Shape
        • Weight
        • Shawl Materials
        • Understanding Weave
      • Producers and Consumers
        • The Production Process
          • The Loom
          • The Talim
        • Working Conditions
        • Expanding Demand and its Impact on Production
    • Chapter 5. Dissecting the Kashmir Shawl, Part 1: Piecework and Structural Proportions
      • Piecework as a Time-Saving Device
      • The Needlework of Piecing
      • Piecework Structures
        • Rectilinear Piecing in Long Shawls
        • Piecing in Square Shawls: Moon to Quatrefoil Format
          • A Multi-Moon Design Layout
          • A Quatrefoil Square Shawl
          • Other Variants on the Moon Shawl
      • The Elaboration of Fringe Gates
      • Changing Structures: Increased Figure Area
      • The Influence of the Jacquard Loom on Shawl Design
    • Chapter 6. Dissecting the Kashmir Shawl, Part 2: Decorative Motifs
      • The Boteh Motif
      • Symbolism of the Boteh: A Ubiquitous Natural Shape
      • Radial Flower Motif
      • Shared Motifs
      • Beading
      • Red-Flower-Green-Leaf Bel
      • Wishbone-Rose Border
      • Four-Fragrant-Flower Repeat
    • References Cited
    • Glossary
  • Part II: Catalogue
    • Turbans/Patkas
    • Long Shawls
      • Long Shawls Woven Whole
      • Yardage Long Shawls
      • Field Gallery Long Shawls
      • Block Pieced Long Shawls
      • Reworked Long Shawls
      • Strata-Field Long Shawls
    • Square Shawls
      • Moon Shawls Woven Whole
      • Moon Shawls Woven Whole except for Attached Hashias
      • Moon Shawls Pieced across the Middle
      • Square Shawls with Broad Field Gallery
      • Piecework Square Shawls
      • Strata-Field Square Shawls
      • Pieced Conglomerate Square Shawls
      • Square Machine-Woven False Kashmir Shawl
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