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Textile Ascendancies: Aesthetics, Production, and Trade in Northern Nigeria
Elisha P. Renne and Salihu Maiwada, Editors
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Until this century, Northern Nigeria was a major center of textile production and trade. Textile Ascendancies: Aesthetics, Production, and Trade in Northern Nigeria examines this dramatic change in textile aesthetics, technologies, and social values in order to explain the extraordinary shift in textile demand, production, and trade.
Textile Ascendancies provides information for the study of the demise of textile manufacturing outside Nigeria. The book also suggests the conundrum considered by George Orwell concerning the benefits and disadvantages of "mechanical progress," and digital progress, for human existence. While textile mill workers in northern Nigeria were proud to participate in the mechanization of weaving, the "tendency for the mechanization of the world" represented by more efficient looms and printing equipment in China has contributed to the closing of Nigerian mills and unemployment.
Textile Ascendancies will appeal toanthropologists for its analyses of social identity as well as how the ethnic identity of consumers influences continued handwoven textile production. The consideration of aesthetics and fashionable dress will appeal to specialists in textiles and clothing. It will be useful to economic historians for the comparative analysis of textile manufacturing decline in the 21st century. It will also be of interest to those thinking about global futures, about digitalization, and how new ways of making cloth and clothing may provide both employment and environmentally sound production practices.
Oliphant trade mark, horseman the translation of the Hausa word “Maidoki” appearing on the Mark is “Horseman”. The transliteration of the Arabic Characters appearing on the Mark is “G.B. OLLIVANT LIMITED” (Official Gazette No. 31, Vol. 43, 3 May 1956).
Studio photograph of women wearing cotton print wrappers with mai tabarma (mat) pattern, Zaria City, 1970 (photograph of photograph, owned by Alhaji Yusuf Abdullahi).
Cloth sample collected in Zaria by Salihu Maiwada from textiles marketed during the 1980s in the area. (Zaria, courtesy of Salihu Maiwada, photograph of photograph by E.P. Renne.)
Map 2.1. Map of Kano-Zaria-Sokoto-Jega, indicating earlier trade routes, which led north to Agades and onto Tripoli and south to Ilorin and Badagri, 1800–1850. (Bovill 1922, opposite page 50.)
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